Home » Questions » Computers [ Ask a new question ]

F11 code error on Kenmore HE3

F11 code error on Kenmore HE3

I've never had a problem with my six year old Kenmore HE3 until recently. A few weeks ago code FDL kept showing up and my cycle would not complete. I ordered a door lock online for this model, replaced it, and my problem went away. (At least I thought it did.) After about 6 loads of wash, code F11 now shows. What could be wrong with my machine?

Asked by: Guest | Views: 74
Total answers/comments: 6
Guest [Entry]

"The F11 code is from a communication break in the serial link from the CCU (Central Control Unit) to the MCU (Motor Control Unit)(from the brains to the washer motor controller). Stay with me here!

There are three blue wires that go to the MCU from the CCU. Most of the problems probably occur during the final spin when the machine spins fastest and longest to extract all of the water.

Hence, the most vibrations cause the connectors to shake until there is a break in communication!

Take the top of the machine off (three #20 torx screws on the top back) to gain access into the machine. The CCU is top center back and has the spaghetti of wire going to it. You will see white wires on the far right of the CCU. Then going left they turn to black. The black set (3 wires) left of the row of white wires if for the Door Lock/Unlock. It IS a problem for the F/DL error. It is not making a good connection. Next the blue wire on the LHS of the CCU, last set (back) there are three blue wires. These 3 go to the MCU and are the serial communication lines. Tighten all these wires to make sure they are making good connections. Make sure your machine is level with all the feet on the floor. You do have a 24 month warranty one the machine so call a tech if within that period. To insure that this may be the problem, take a ride and sit on it during the final spin ;-) If it works then you know it's probably the wiring, if it doesn't buck you off first.

You really don't want to replace these parts because the MCU is $230 and the CCU is $175 -- a lot to pay for some loose wires. If you must buy parts, here they are: http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Par..."
Guest [Entry]

I was able to get rid of this same problem by removing the CCU (pretty easy), desoldering the 3 relays on the board and soldering them back into place. I also opened up the two white ones and cleaned them inside, but the fix actually came after desoldering and resoldering the black relay. 8 loads so far - no issues. Prior to that it would stop working about every other load.
Guest [Entry]

I too had this issue and thanks to Mayer and Chris Campbells post went straight to the problem. I looked at the solder points on the under side of the board for the relays. With the naked eye, nothing looked out of the ordinary; however, under a microscope at the office, was able to see the solder was broken in a circular shape at the base of the pin. Again, it wasnt clearly visible even under the scope until you moved the relay on the other side and then you could clearly see the pin coming in and out of contact with the traces. I had my technician remove the old solder and resolder which after reinstallation has completely solved the issue. For those who dont have a technician available to them, any local electronics repair house could do this for you. Good luck.
Guest [Entry]

"The F11 fault was killing my wife's well oiled household machine and it's my fault?

I found the round cracks around 6 of the soldered pins on the backside of the CCU board. I just touched up all the solder joints for the Black Relays like the fellas above stated. My wife is ecstatic that the machine went past the magic 11 minutes to go barrier she had been fighting for the last week. All I can say, is that you guys are AWESOME.

OBTW: I found that numbering all the connectors and matching the numbers on the CCU case made it a snap to reassemble. Just a thought.

Greg"
Guest [Entry]

"The F11 code is caused by either a CCU failure or an MCU failure...here's how to tell:

If your machine starts a cycle and the water fills but the drum NEVER turns, your MCU is bad...it's most cost effective to buy a refurbished one and you can get them on eBay for $99 all day long.

If your machine makes it most of the way through a cycle but throws an F11 code during the rinse or spin, your CCU has the relay solder / vibration problem..."
Guest [Entry]

"I found that my excessive vibration is due to there only being two springs holding the barrel as opposed to four, which it was designed for. The springs have stretched out and doesn't have enough support.

I tightend the connectors on the CCU and replaced the springs and haven't had a problem for 5 loads now."