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Cord that connects to door switch in dryer no longer starts
I've had a Whirlpool dryer for 17 years and it worked fine until it recently stopped working. It was plugged in, the door was shut properly, and the power outlet works when I plug in something else into it. Now it doesn't run at all. No turning or heat. I also confirmed continuity between the 2 metal pins on the thermal fuse
ANSWERS:
"Did you check the circuit breaker? Perhaps the dryer isn't getting any power.
Unplug the dryer, and check the other electrical parts for continuity. There may be another part that is also bad."
"You already verified there is power at your dryer because other items work when plugged in. That confirms the issue is inside your dryer. Does your model have a wiring diagram inside it? Some appliances like this have one that is just inserted or one that is glued to the sides.
When you test the door switch - on the door switch harness - you need a meter to show when the switch is not closed there is no continuity (door is open). When you press the switch you should get continuity (door is closed).
Did the power cord melt somewhere or rub through inside or outside the dryer? Is there a second fuse in the dryer (not the thermal fuse). You could just have a failed control board.
Do you have the exact model of the dryer?"
"How do I check for the circuit breaker, control board, or second fuse? The model is Whirlpool LGR4634JQ1
When the door is open, when I check the 1st and 2nd pins of the door switch I get an initial resistance of .3 ohms and then it decreases to 0 after a couple seconds but there is no continuity between the 1st and 3rd pins. When the door is closed, I get the opposite: when I check the 1st and 3rd pins of the door switch I get an initial resistance of .3 ohms and then it decreases to 0 after a couple seconds but there is no continuity between the 1st and 2nd pins
I did not see a wiring diagram inside it or glued to the sides.
I did not see the power cord melt somewhere or rub through inside or outside the dryer"
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