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Dryer won't start. No error codes. Replaced thermal fuse, door switch.

Dryer won't start. No error codes. Replaced thermal fuse, door switch.

My dryer won't start. The red lights work and light inside work, so it has power. I replaced the thermal fuse and door switch. No luck. The panel lights work normally. After I select the dryer setting and start it, it beeps, but doesn't start. I don't here any noises after the beep, nor do I see the drum move. I do hear a click coming from the area of the PC board as it beeps. Also, the fan spins freely, so there doesn't appear to be anything obstructing it. The drum turns by hand. The belt is attached and in good working order. I checked the PC board. No obvious signs of being burnt. I suspect the motor is bad, but don't want to replace it if that isn't the problem. Is there way to further diagnose the dryer or the motor specifically? Thank you.

ANSWERS:

"Use a multimeter to test the wall plug. You should have 2 polls giving 110-120 volts each and a ground. It sounds like you may only have one side hot and the other not.

UPDATE 1/15/16

\Cause 1

Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown out. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.

Cause 2

Start Switch

To determine if the start switch is defective, attempt to start the dryer. If the dryer hums but does not start, the start switch is not at fault. If the dryer does not respond or make any noise, the start switch could be at fault. Use a multimeter to test the start switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 3

Door Switch

The door switch activates when the dryer door is closed. On most dryers, the door switch makes an audible clicking sound when it activates. To determine if the door switch is working, try starting your dryer and then listen for the “click.” If the door switch makes a clicking sound, it is probably not defective. If you don’t hear a click, use a multimeter to use the door switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it."

Ok think I found it. My dryer was doing the same. Had power, and when you hit start you would just hear clicks from the circuit board. Long story short check the wires going into motor. Mine was a blue wire that had burned its connector off. Good luck.

"Check on the inside surface of the front lower panel, and hopefully you will find a diagnostic/tech sheet that will allow troubleshooting of the control board (front panel board).

If a microswitch had gone bad, the computer will not allow any startup at all (appears dead at panel).

The diagnostic is easy with a regular ohmmeter. but you do need to completely remove the board.

If board is bad, replace ($300+), or if its just a microswitch.. remove and resolder a new one ( $0.50).

Good luck !

(btw, I posted why I think this is a design fault of the he3/4 line , and a workaround ,in one of my other posts)"

I have kind of the same problem. The dryer is hard to start. I have to hit the start and then the off button several times before it will start. Each time I press the start button there is a click and the drum will jerk a little. Sometimes it will start on the first press other time I have to press start - off 10 times before it will start. One it starts everything seems to work ok. I have tested all of the settings and it does this in all of them. This is a maytag 9700 series

"I know this is an old post, but wanted to add to this thread for others. I just had to fix my Maytag with same symptoms. I wasted a bunch of time removing panels and checking/replacing switches and fuses. Go straight to the main board. Took all of 5 minutes to remove and I could clearly see from the back of the board that it was toast and scored the metal behind it. Wasn’t cheap, but found locally for around $225 likely can find cheaper online if willing to wait. My Wife was not as I had already wasted 4+ days checking the other items.

Again, check the main board first thing before wasting time dismantling several parts to get to the various thermistors/thermal fuse(s)/switches/etc.."

My Samsung wouldn’t start but if you manually rotated the drum to start it, it runs fine. The centrifical contact arm in the motor switch had the contact head burned off so there was no start circuit for motor… only run.

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