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GE Profile Microwave is blowing through door switches

GE Profile Microwave is blowing through door switches

I have a Profile microwave that’s about 10 years old. A couple of years ago it stopped working, and the problem turned out to be the door switch. (Surprise!) I replaced the switch, and everything was fine for about 6 months. They it stopped working again. Door switch again. Fixed. Good for about 6 months. Dead switch again. What’s going on?


"Hi @templedf ,

If the plastic is melting then it means that too much current is flowing through the switch and it is getting hot. So the problem is most likely the other component(s) that the switch is connected to. If the switch has the correct power rating then it won’t get hot if the other components are OK, The switch voltage and current ratings should be marked on it

Depending on which switch it is it may be the magnetron circuit, the fan circuit or the motor circuit etc.

You would need to have the schematic of the oven or at least to trace the wires from the switch (one side would most probably come from the input power connection) and check where it goes to and then check the components if the switch is rated correctly.

Be safety aware when working in microwave ovens as they are dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

The HV capacitor can seriously injure you as it can store enough voltage (>6000V DC) for months, even if the oven has been disconnected for this amount of time. It needs to be discharged correctly before attempting any repair work. Most simply short out the terminals on the HV capacitor to dissipate the voltage but this can damage the capacitor or if an inappropriately sized screwdriver was used can actually weld it onto the terminals. Most people doing it this way are too impatient to do it correctly. Make a lead (12 gauge wire) with alligator clips at each end and a 10W 1 MegOhm resistor in series i.e. clip- lead - resistor - lead - clip, and connect it between the +ve terminal of the capacitor and the chassis and let it discharge the capacitor. Wait for about 5 minutes and then use the screwdriver to dissipate any residual charge that may be still there just to make doubly sure."

You do not need to replace “bad” switches, just open the switch box with a razor, sand away rusted metals, bend the spring to make stronger. It will work again

"Try buying the actual OEM part. I would get from a local Appliance parts dealer. In Seattle I use Apex Appliance on Aurora.,

Inspect it at the store and see if it looks materially different? If the wire you say is melting is larger, that could be your issue.

I also wonder if the microwave itself could be cooking the switch? It’s an odd theory, but a switch doesn’t usually have high voltage, its usually just a gate for the rest of the circuit; If SOMEHOW the microwave was leaking radiation onto the switch, that could be an explanation too. wrapping the wire in foil tape might help this. Just crazy thoughts, I know."

No, My issue was with the top switch. I was replacing the switch about every 2-3 weeks. I finally gave up and replaced it with an oven from Sharp.

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