Why are my fridge and freezer not cooling?

"Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost ""manually."" When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

The defrost timer

The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser

Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

You didn’t say what brand/model you have, but check out the LG fridge not cooling page for more ideas—most of them are not brand-specific at all, so they may apply to your situation."

Kathy, there is a circulator fan blowing from the freezer into most fridge compartments. Do and did you used to hear/feel this little fan blowing when you open the door? Sounds like the fan has locked up and needs replacement. You have good cooling if the freezer is 2F. The fridge compartment temp control just opens and closes a shutter this fan blows through to cool the unfrozen stuff.....

how you guys are doing. Today i had my fridge check and i kinda had an idea of what the problem was. I went on youtube and google it to find some kind of idea of what the problem was but none of them weren't. In one occasion someone on youtube mention that it could be a relay malfuntioning; and guess what it turned out to be the relay capasitor that operates the compressor. I am glad i didnt buy a new fridge. I did pay the technician for checking that out thou but it wasn't much. so if your fridge isn't cooling check your compressor relay

"@sue3772 ,

What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?

The compressor relay is not your problem.

The relay is there just to start the compressor operating and since you say the freezer temp is OK but not the fridge temp the compressor must be running OK. The “cold temperature” is generated in the freezer compartment and then transferred to the refrigerator section by the evaporator fan and air damper.

Was there a lot of ice in the freezer compartment? If so it may be that the auto defrost is not working and the evaporator fan is icing over and is stopped, preventing cold air from being blown into the refrigerator compartment, to cool it down to the set temperature.

If the compressor is running, the evap fan should be running. It is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel. Place an ear next to the refrigerator and listen for it running. It will stop if a door is opened (any door) and start again when the doors are shut.

Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor motor and can be running even if the doors are open. It is there to cool the condenser coils if they are getting too warm

If you can't hear the evaporator fan at all, then it may be faulty or iced over etc.

If it is iced over this may be due to a faulty defrost heater, a blocked drain pipe below the evap unit, preventing defrost meltwater from going to the evap pan outside under the fridge, a faulty defrost thermostat or a faulty control board."

hey i just saw you comment. I would suggest that you get check firts before anything else. it might be something simple instead of spending lots of money on buying a new one. like i said, my had a problem where it wasn't cooling and thought of getting a new one but didnt' and only spent $75 for getting it fix.