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70 Series top loader agitates but will not drain or spin?

70 Series top loader agitates but will not drain or spin?

Washing machine fills agitates then stops will not drain or spin. If I place the hose in floor drain it does drain but still no spin. This is not a belt driven machine any assistance is appreciated.

ANSWERS:

Lisa, check the lid switch. You can turn the machine to spin cycle and turn it on. Once it begins to spin, or should be, after about 10 seconds open the lid quickly and see if there was any spin motion. If there was not, try to jumper the lid switch and see if that works. Here is a good video about it. Hope this helps, good luck.

No drain or spin is usually a broken lid switch . two screws hold the control panel in place, remove and flip the panel up and away . there will be 1 molex connector with 3 wires going into the top of the washer . disconnect and jumper two wires together using a paper clip bent into a "U". the 3rd wire is green and is a ground. insulate the jumper with electricians tape. do not jumper the ground. test the machine in spin and it should function now . this is only to diagnose the issue as it defeats the safety of spin stopping when the lid is lifted

"Sounds like the drain pump is gone as it drains by gravity without a problem. Spin won't kick in if you still have water in the tub.

If you have a volt meter see if you can read voltage at the pump when it needs to run. Be careful! as you don't want to get shocked!"

With my Wirlpool Heavy Duty the lid-switch fell out in my hand when I reached for it to check it. I jumped the non-green wires with a solid wire in the white-plastic 3-pronged half of the modular switch under the panel where it went into the back of the dial panel from the top of the washer. I put a sign on the top of my washer saying "Safety Over-rides in Place - No Use By Children" or something like that.

Not sure what you mean by a rattle. Do you mean a "klacking" sound? That would be the motor coupling. Easy enough to change-out. Pull the body cover by removing the two screws that hold the control panel to the body, roll the control panel up, and remove the two clips on either side of the body to the rear panel using a flat head screw driver. Tilt the body back toward you, and remove. Take the clips off the pump motor, and then the clips on the motor. The coupling is a three-prong piece of plastic with a rubber cushion between it and the other coupling on the transmission. Break the old coupling, and replace with a new set, that has a metal keen-sert where it must be hammer-tapped onto the shaft of the transmission and the motor shaft. Be careful to use a 7/16" socket to tap the couplings on, or you will break them around the base on the transmission and motor posts. Realign the couplings through the rubber buffer, and re-clip the motor and the drain pump. Reassemble the body by holding the body by the top lid, tilt 30 degrees toward you at the lid, and slide the bottom of the body under the bar near the floor. Be careful to push the fill spout under the top of the body before replacing the clips, and the screws to the control panel.

Recalibrate it! Check out a calibration issue for Kenmore on YouTube! It's unfortunate that are washing machines have a brain of Their Own!

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