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Why is the "F dl" light come on

Why is the "F dl" light come on

This has really been a struggle, the "F dl" light comes on and we are stuck and can't get the door open or continue on with the wash, it also beeps as it stops.


"These are the errors for error code

F/dL Door Lock Error


A Door Lock Error occurs if the door cannot be unlocked. It will try to lock it 6 times before displaying the error.

check or repair the following

Door Lock Mechanism broken or removed from the Door

Check Door Lock/Switch Assembly

Check the wire harness connections to the Door Lock/Switch Assembly and Central Control Unit (CCU)

Door Lock/Switch Assembly Failure

http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/... and http://www.thathomesite.com/forums/load/... have more on this. Here is a way to gain access to your washer if the door is locked shut.

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier.

2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.

3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.

4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.

Sometimes these doors will not unlock for whatever reason. If there are no error codes being generated, this could have just been a momentary glitch. If you see ""Fdl"" or ""Fdu"" error codes, these are usually indications of a failed door latch assembly and will require replacement. You can also try to reset the CCU by unplugging the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes. Hope that helps."

Suddenly, my Kenmore Elite h3 washer door would not lock. I could hear a clicking noise in the back but no loud latching noise from the door. After a few clicks, the beeper would sound and the panel would flash "DL" and "F". After reading a few blogs I determined I had a door latch problem. I unplugged the washer and turned off the water. I tightened the screws for the latch in the door using a torx screw bit. I removed the front bottom panel (3 torx screws bottom of panel). Reached inside and pulled the emergency release (You can see it using a flashlight) several times. I then removed the top panel (3 hex screws in the back) and unplugged the 2 pink wireing harness from the panel in the back and plugged them back in (the pink wires go to the door latch). I also reached in and jiggled the wiring harness to door latch. Plugged the washer back, turned the water on, put a load of clothes and the door latch locked with it's usual loud noise and the washer started working!! I am going to buy a replacement door latch swithch. I found several on ebay for about 40 bucks.

"-(Kenmore HE3)…same thing... mine would not lock, error 'DL'... i replaced the door latch mechanism, which did not solve the problem. -i removed the three torx screws from the top-back of the unit, lifted the back cover up gently an inch, and slid the top of the washer away from me, removed top. -then i just reseated the pink wire connector (i reseated them all). -problem solved, for now. -must be a poor connection (vibration?). -cost me $73 for the latch i didn't need, hope i save you $.

-update 1/20/18:

*****eventually i had to re-solder the board where the connectors make contact, which involved removing the board and adding a bit of solder to each of the contact points on the board, been years now without a fault. This was the solution."

I think I found the issue with the latch switch... it is a passive switch, and therefore can fail to close the electrical loop if corrosion or wear begins to take hold... I used an old gearhead trick and put some WD40 into the switch from the outside, soaking it. That enabled the oil to impregnate the switch and come in contact with the contacts that close the electrical loop. I verified this by using a multimeter to analyze the before and after ohm reading. Before, there was no ohms read, 0. After, infinite, or closed. So, the switch appears to be at fault here for some instances. The connector is rather flimsy as well, and a dose of WD40 on those contacts should keep that from misbehaving in the future as well. But in my situation, the switch was the culprit and now is working again as it did when it was new. Hope this helps, and should be a cheap fix for some.

I have an answer...before doing any removing of the washer, I left the door closed (usually it is open after a wash to air-dry) and started the washer up to an hour later and it reset itself. The key here is to keep the door shut so it resets the lock. Make sure the load of clothes is inside with detergent (if not in the drawer) and press start buttons half an hour to an hour later. I had the clothes and detergent ready to go for an hour with the door shut...it worked!

"Great post!

We had the same problem. Wiring was fine. I tried the WD40 and then accidentally had the latch in lock mode with the door open!

I could not manually unlock it.

My son and I took the latch completely off after removing the wiring harnesses.

We opened the latch carefully to not lose or displace springs.

We found a small piece of broken plastic jamming the mechanism. We got the box back together and reinstalled the latch. All is working so far!"

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