Dryer won't start (interior light working, control panel not working)?

I had this exact problem with a 10 year old Whirlpool dryer. The main troubleshooting information given here about thermal switches, belts, etc, is useless. The issue is with either the front panel interface or the main control board. All the talk of cold solder joints, bad tact switches, LEDs, etc. floating around the net was not applicable in my case. I went over the interface board, replaced all the switches, touched up EVERY solder connection, and it didn't help at all. I suspect the real issue is with the main control board. Both parts are around $300 each. And, if you get it wrong, you might spend $600 to fix your dryer. If you price out new dryers, that's likely NOT a good investment given something else expensive might soon fail on an older dryer. I found a nice GE steam dryer for $579 and it's matching front loader steam washer for $579 with a free 4 year warranty, free delivery, and free haul away of my old poorly designed Whirlpool appliances with overpriced parts. The cost of the new dryer was less than the cost of replacing the front panel interface and control board in my 10 year old Whirlpool. Goodbye Whirlpool.

"It's most likely a burned out control board. Google your make and model to find the replacement. Watch YouTube video on how to replace it, and buy used if you can.

You can confirm if it's the board by taking it out after watching the YouTube video. If it's burned, it will be obvious with scorch marks. It's held in by just screws and clips. Take pics before disassembling so you'll know what it should look like when putting everything back together again."

Take out the motherboard, Google the model, buy a replacement. Take a picture before removing so you remember how to install the new one.

"I would try the thermal fuse first. Located behind the bottom kick plate. Use an ohm-meter if you know how. Just replace it if you do not. They’re cheap. UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST. 4 quarter-inch screws, and there it is - mounted right on the vent pipe. There is always the possibility that the main control, or user interface needs to be replaced. But WPL part number 3392519 is the cheapest and easiest thing to try first - especially if you are going for a DIY repair. With that said*** On some/most models, that fuse being blown would still allow the lights on the display to turn on. It normally just won't let you start the cycle. Some models behave differently though, and kill power to the controls.

If that doesn’t do it….Next thing to do would be to disconnect the User Interface from the main control board. Blow all of the dust out of the connectors and use some dielectric grease on them. Google that if you need to:) Reconnect and try that.

Still no luck? New dryer time. Unless you can find replacement boards online for cheap - which is doubtful. Especially in the Covid supply-chain that we find ourselves in. Good Luck!"

I found the issue with my dryer...works normally now. I blew out and vacuumed the exhaust vent. Used a blower to blow out and a shop vacuum to remove as much lent as possible. Had a blockage that caused the dryer temperature limit safety switch to cut power to the heater after the temperature reached a certain point. The drum continued to rotate on my Whirlpool Model # GEW9250PWI. The laundry would mostly dry, but now dries like new. I have a 32' vent. Will swap it out to a rigged vent because of the long distance and one 90 degree bend. 40' is the max with rigid. Subtract 8' for each 90 degree bend. Also, subtract 8' for flex vent material. Current flex material is over the distance for best venting. Works fine now, but I will monitor to see if the issue returns. May need to change out the temperature limit safety switch if it has become weak.