If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced. On some models the bearing is part of the outer tub and the outer tub will need to be replaced.
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit
If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem. sometimes the tub seal and bearing are part of the outer tub and the outer tub would then need to be replaced.
Rear Drum with Bearing
If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.
Bearing
If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.
Drive Pulley
If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
Pulley
If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley may be worn out. If the drive pulley is loose or wobbling it will need to be replaced
U-Joint Kit
If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.
Motor Coupling
If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.
Clutch
If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.
Drive Belt
If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.
Transmission
If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.
Drain Pump
If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.
Drive Motor
If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced."
The one I have does not have a belt it is a direct drive. I thought the stator and rotor are bad. There is a loud squeak coming from the rotor. I didn't see any play in the bearing.
"Often this complaint is caused by a broken spider that connects the drive shaft to the drum itself. It is replaceable, but a pretty big job. If you can lift the drum up from inside more than a half inch or so, it will be the spider and not a bearing issue.
The problem is that the corrosives in the detergent weakens the aluminum spider and on the spin cycle it fails. The spider, due to corrosion is not weldable in any permanent way.
Always leave the door open a bit on front load washers so the inside drys out between loads. This will reduce the corrosive action. Letting it dry out will also keep bacteria from making the drum smell.
"Related to what Jeff Weaver Said in the comments above (back in 2016), I did experiment the Spider arm failure on a similar Kenmore machine just last week.
The spider arm is the part that holds the drum to the bearings and motor. It’s made of a white “pot” metal.
This metal does not like cold water, since it make the cheap detergents stick on it, which causes premature corrosion. (High end detergents might help a bit I guess).
Corrosion makes that part unbalanced and makes the machines banging around more and more as time goes, until the vibrations are unbearable and the bearing starts screaming. In my case, it made the tub seal scrub against the spinning arm and started smoking during the final spin.
Guy at the part shop suggested to use warm water at all time to extent the life of the spider arm, as well as leaving the door open at all time when not in use, to keep the parts dry inside.
Here are some pictures I took in the process of replacing the spider arm. The thing was so badly corroded that it completely fell apart in dust when I removed it. (Good thing I did this in my garage…).
I paid ~ 170$ CAD for the replacement spider arm, which is completely worth it for a 1200+$ Kenmore Machine that is only 7 years old. It’s now running smoothly and I expect at least another 8 to 10 years without this to fail again, with better care this time!
I hear you about the costs and energy of using warm water. But I like to keep my appliances for a long time. I don’t want to calculate the costs and energy of replacing entire washing machines every 5 to 10 years!"
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