Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

"yaya



Rep: 267




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"Here is a close up of the iPad mini backlight fuse---ideally you would replace it for a robust long lasting solution which is very straightforward to do with the right equipment and experience. If you insist on jumping it, you would need to lay a bead of solder across the top of this component with the red arrow.

Keep in mind--this picture is an image that I took to send to a customer that came to me from this very thread that knocked off the two essential components circled in red while digging around trying to make the jumper. The capacitor just to the right of the backlight fuse is only found on the iPad mini and the iPad 4 and is difficult to source if you damage it and have to replace it. The capacitor on the left is essential and required. The two small components that are missing in this picture are also essential and must be replaced, not jumped, if they are damaged. These ""DIY rescue"" repairs can quickly get very expensive so BE CAREFUL!!

jessa

I've decided to post some DIY fails here. This is such a straightforward, inexpensive fix to send out for...it always makes me sad when I get these trainwreck minis sent to me. Repair is noble when you use the right tools.

DIY Fail---This is exactly why NOT to jump the fuse. This guy burned up his diode with this way too big wire.

This is a great way to short out your iPad, except it was already done. If your jumper has continuity with ground (like this one) you're done."

Jumping the backlight filter is a bad idea guys--that will likely cause you (or your customer's) backlight coil to fail prematurely. This is especially true if you are putting a mini back together and testing your digitizer soldering job, home button etc and keep plugging/unplugging the LCD. The filter is an easy part to replace--about $5 on eBay. In fact, replacing the whole backlight coil, filter, and ic is less than $20 for parts cost and takes just a few minutes with a hot air station and a little experience. The mini does seem particularly sensitive to the sudden change in voltage that comes from unplugging the LCD. I've learned this the hard way!

"Steps you should take before advanced soldering techniques.

1. Hold Power and Home Button for Hard Reset

2. Unplug battery cable, reconnect, power on

3. Check your LCD connector for damage, dirt, metal, lint, etc

a. Check LCD connector on the motherboard for same

4. Curse yourself for not unplugging the battery while working on it

5. Multi meter the green traces that YoloRepair pointed out

6. Perform a fuse replacement, or a jump. - Recommended you seek pro help, because this type of repair requires a stereoscope and a extremely steady hand with soldering skills.

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Making Jumper Steps

1. Make sure it's that part - http://i39.tinypic.com/3130ry8.jpg

2. Give yourself access to both side, I made small cut on shield

3. Remove blown fuse, replace or jump. I chose jump - http://i44.tinypic.com/2lbno5k.jpg

4. Test - WOOHOO! Thanks YoloRepair <3 - http://i39.tinypic.com/2924cyb.jpg

5. Clean excess flux and leave repair area in best shape possible - http://i40.tinypic.com/mbtok3.jpg

6. Test everything again, close it, and get sigh of relief.

7. Thank YoloRepair once more."

I agree with the answers relating to the backlight. This happens all of the time, from either too much heat (when tearing the iPad down), or damaging some of the connectors on the motherboard that the electric current for the backlight flows through. Happens commonly with DIY attempts which means, if you're DIYing an iPad repair, be MORE CAREFUL than careful. Be neurotic about it.