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Whirlpool refrigerator top light and freezer light not working.

Whirlpool refrigerator top light and freezer light not working.

Hi, all.

Asked by: Guest | Views: 206
Total answers/comments: 6
Guest [Entry]

"Hi,

Couple of things to check just in case it is two different problems and not one affecting both sets of lights

1 For the freezer light there is a light switch in the freezer that may have gone faulty. Check that the switch is still working electrically, i.e. not open circuit when released.

Click on freezer liner parts diagram and find part#7

2 For the overhead lights in the fridge, it appears as though the 3 overhead light modules are connected to the LED module control board.

Click on fridge liner parts diagram and find part #27

Since the freezer drain was blocked, meltwater may have got in between the freezer and fridge sections and affected the control board or even the individual overhead LED modules.

If the individual modules appear to be OK at least you can test if there is power being applied to them from the LED module control board.

Given that the sidelights are still working, it may be that only certain sections of the board are faulty.

Here’s a link to a supplier that shows all the parts and how much they cost.

There are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for WRX988SIBM03 parts to get results."
Guest [Entry]

We had the same problem with the upper and freezer lights going bad. We purchased an extended warranty from Whirlpool. The serviceman could not repair the unit because the light module in the freezer (connected to upper lights) went bad and is covered with insulation. He called Whirlpool for help and they told him that it is not repairable and we need a new fridge. Our refrigerator is a top of the line Whirlpool with a MSRP of more than $3300. Whirlpool offered me an allowance of about $2,100 toward a replacement with no guarantee that the problem will not come back. That means a thousand bucks for their product that failed after about 13 months. Very frustrating. I think the consumer products Commissions and Consumer Reports need to look into the issue.
Guest [Entry]

"I GOT LIGHTS!!!!!!!

Finally said **** it and bought a freezer LED light and it came an hour ago.

Replacing the fridge side a few months back.... I replaced the top fridge light and it got me some dim light in the fridge from darkness. ... but the freezer remained dark.

Not anymore! rolled the unit out, unplugged it, popped the freezer light out, plugged the new one back in, plugged the unit back to power and opened the door to the BRIGHTEST lights. Like when new on both freezer and fridge."
Guest [Entry]

Might be possible you disturbed a connector while clearing drain. I assume this a frost-free refrigerator so if you had ice in freezer the defrost heater is probably bad.
Guest [Entry]

"Hi @BentBow

Here are all the components involved with the lights.

Given that it affects both the refrigerator and freezer compartment lights, I suspect that the LED light control board or the harness connection to it, is the most likely cause of the problem.

The switches would most probably only signal the control board to turn the lights on and off. It would be unusual for both door switches to go faulty at the same time."
Guest [Entry]

Mine had the strobe problem. When the door was opened all the lights in the fridge and freezer would strobe. I popped the fridge light down from the top with a butter knife and checked the LED board for burnt components. I found none. I troubleshot the problem for awhile with the light board hanging from the top. If pressure was applied to the side of the smaller connector, the light would work properly. After a bunch of trial and error fixes I finally determined that the pins sticking up from the board into the smaller connector were not forming a consistent mechanical (and thus electrical) connection to the female pins on the male connector coming from the supply. I found a couple of very small sewing needles and wedged one of them each of the wire holes in the top of the connector coming from the supply so that the connection was constant and stable. I dyked them off short enough to clear the top of the light holder in the ceiling of the fridge and popped the light back in. Works fine so far after several days. Saved an outrageous $180+ for a replacement light. Especially considering there is nothing wrong with the original.