"When your Dakota or Durango left the factory, it had a Mopar motor and voltage resister that were compatible with each other. After 10-15 years the motor wears out , begins to draws more amps burns up the resister. Most people replace the wiring harness and the resister with. cheap replacement from Autozone / Advanced etc. Then a couple days later it’s melted again. Then they buy a aftermarket blower motor and again it keeps burning up.
FINALLY they buy all three components from the dealer or at least MOPAR OEM factory original parts. And then it works, but only for a year and then it burns up again and you say what the F#*@!!!
Even if you use 100% OEM parts it still fails:
The reason is………….For your 2001 to 2011 vehicle MOPAR didn’t make your replacement part. Oh sure it will say MOPAR on the box and say factory original OEM part, BUT IT’S NOT!!!!! It’s made buy a number of after market companys, mostly NAPA. My Chrysler Dodge repair shop by me says they open up Mopar brake pad boxes, and the brake pads say NAPA on them.
Just the way it is today. Noboys makes their own parts anymore, mostly China crap. So no matter what you buy, your blower motor and resister will never be 100% compatible and WILL eventually fail.
Go to a salvage yard, find a low mileage Durango or Dakota and pull the motor and resister and then you will be good to go.
OR:
Only use high speed fan setting for heat and AC. Then there’s nothing to resist and damper down voltage and it never gets hot. You can even use cheap eBay parts etc.
Sorry, not the perfect fix but it is the truth, I’ve spent 2 years figuring this out"
The reason is………….For your 2001 to 2011 vehicle MOPAR didn’t make your replacement part. Oh sure it will say MOPAR on the box and say factory original OEM part, BUT IT’S NOT!!!!! It’s made buy a number of after market companys, mostly NAPA. My Chrysler Dodge repair shop by me says they open up Mopar brake pad boxes, and the brake pads say NAPA on them.
Just the way it is today. Noboys makes their own parts anymore, mostly China crap. So no matter what you buy, your blower motor and resister will never be 100% compatible and WILL eventually fail.
Go to a salvage yard, find a low mileage Durango or Dakota and pull the motor and resister and then you will be good to go.
OR:
Only use high speed fan setting for heat and AC. Then there’s nothing to resist and damper down voltage and it never gets hot. You can even use cheap eBay parts etc.
Sorry, not the perfect fix but it is the truth, I’ve spent 2 years figuring this out
Helping out a friend who has this same issue -- he has replaced the blower motor plus several resistors/harnesses (including using MOPAR parts) and seems like its pretty much a crapshoot how long they will last.
I'm wondering if it is good/feasible solution to just bypass the resistor/harness and run power directly from the fan switch to the motor, through a fuse (see diagram below)
I realize this will limit the fan to only one speed, full blast, but its worth it to him to not have to keep screwing around with this. Does anyone see any issues/downsides to this workaround?"
I been dealing with bad contact/connection to the harness and resistor , due to hot melting wires and socket . I'm replacing the connector and couple wires. I try to run it in high so hopefully it last longer .
Ok , think I figured it out . I got this truck from a previous owner if not more . It seems the blower it's from a junk yard . When I replaced the resistor connector and wires (melted) I took the blower off the truck . It seemed that it was a little hard to spin on it's own . Huuuuum ! I put lots of WD-40 aot both ends and that makes spin much easier . I did soldier each wire from the resistor plug . After a little while of A/C running , I check the wires and not hot . Still dealing with condensation discharge , as it keeps into the cabin , under the carpet .
