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Kenmore Elite HE4 Dryer Heating/drying clothes not working?

Kenmore Elite HE4 Dryer Heating/drying clothes not working?

Drying turns on but not heating or drying clothes, only air working

ANSWERS:

"Gisele, a couple of things you can look at. I am making the assumption that you have a multimeter, or at least have access to somebody who does and that you have a few basic hand tools. First things first ;-) check to make sure that your dryer vent is not blocked, crimped or otherwise obstructed. Then try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.

Check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts. L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If that is okay unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out

Be careful as exposure to 240 volts is a hair raising experience and can be lethal.

If that checks out okay, unplug your dryer and remove the back of the dryer and check the heating element. You can check the heating element with a ohm meter or by removing it and looking to see if the element has a broken wire inside.

HEATER

1. Disconnect the electrical power to the dryer.

2. Set the ohmmeter to the R X 1 scale.

3. Disconnect one of the wire connectors from the heater terminal block.

4. Touch the ohmmeter test leads to the terminals on the heater terminal block. The

ohmmeter should indicate between 7 and 12 ohms.

THERMAL FUSE

Electric Dryers: The thermal fuse is wired in series with the drive motor. If the thermal fuse opens, 91°C (196°F), power to the motor is turned off. A centrifugal switch on the motor also opens the heater circuit. Gas Dryers: The thermal fuse is wired in series with the gas valve. If the thermal fuse opens, 91°C (196°F), power to the valve is turned off. A centrifugal switch on the motor also opens the heater circuit. Once the thermal fuse has opened, it will not reset, and must be replaced. Check for a failed thermistor, or a shorted heater element (electric dryers only).

1. Disconnect the electrical power to the dryer.

2. Set the ohmmeter to the R X 1 scale.

3. Disconnect the wires from the thermal fuse.

4. Touch the ohmmeter test leads to the thermal fuse terminals. The ohmmeter should

indicate continuity (0 Ω). If the meter indicates an open circuit (infinite), replace the thermal fuse.

THERMAL CUTOFF

(ELECTRIC DRYERS ONLY)

The thermal cutoff is a non-resettable device. The cutoff temperature is 178°C (352°F). If the dryer does not heat and there is 240 VAC to the dryer, perform the following test.

1. Disconnect the electrical power to the dryer.

2. Set the ohmmeter to the R X 1 scale.

3. Disconnect the wires from the thermal cutoff.

4. Touch the ohmmeter test leads to the thermal cutoff terminals. The ohmmeter should indicate continuity (0 Ω). If the meter indicates an open circuit (infinite), replace both the thermal cutoff and the high-limit thermostat. In addition, check for a failed heater element, or a blocked, or improper exhaust system.

Now, if you need to know more information, or need help in working on this dryer, download the service manual from here. Hope this helps, good luck."

Kenmore elite dryer is not heating

To follow up on what OldTurkey said above, get an analog multimeter (the kind with the needle), and set it to ohms. When you test each electrical part, if the part is good, the needle will move; if it is bad, the needle won't move. This is not as accurate of a test as the one OldTurkey described above; but it is a very simple way to get an idea of which part might be bad.

"The only additions I may add to the lengthy, but eloquantly described steps below, would be to inspect the elements themselves; occasionally the element which contracts when cold (off) showing a good resistance (Ohms), yet, under load (on), will quickly seperate the split element.

Similar to a loose terminal on a car battery will deduct 80% of its potential to provide power (Amperage) A loose/corroded mating surface on connectors will cause extreme heat and arcing, burning the molecular structure of the copper wire. It will appear black and purplish and be fatigued so inspect connectors and wire condition to terminals which demand Amperage.

Quickie Fix! I have actually taken many a broken element, twist broken ends together, then wrapped the twist fix with a piece of element from a broken toaster to make a solid connection, just may save you money and hopefully not burn the house down so this is possible but not really advisable, some risk exists, exponentially with dirty lint-filled exhaust ports, the hose attaches to.

It is advisable for everyone to clean your vents in the fall to prevent lint buildup, creosote levels in chimneys, and old chimneys must be inspected for loose bricks in their attics close to roof peaks where mortar is missing, flames passing through cracks & holes, licking at wooden rafters.

Global Bonus Tip for home owners: Check for burn evidence where chimneys meet the roof in your attics before operating that fireplace or wood furnace!

East Coast Canada Rocks!

:)"

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