Wash load still wet-washer not draining and spinning properly.
The door to the washer was unlocked, but the load was still dripping wet. I hit the drain/spin button to spin it out again, but I got the Sud error code. I couldn't get it to clear until I unplugged the machine and plugged it back in. I tried the drain/spin button again and when the spin light came on, all that it did was fill with a little water (I could see it through the window) and make a noise. It did not spin.
We had the same problem and, in frustration, replaced the entire pump assembly. Upon examination of the old pump, we removed the motor from the intake filter (three screws) and noticed that the impeller had moved away from the motor armature by approximately 3/16th of an inch. This space between the motor and impeller caused the pump to cavitate, loose suction resulting in the suds routine and other drain errors. We pushed the impeller firmly back into the armature and found that the old pump worked properly. Our machine is 11 years old and we don't know why the impeller shaft would move nor do we know if the impeller will now stay in it's correct position. Anyway, we now have an extra pump assembly! Tip: when reassembling the motor to the filter housing, apply a little silicone grease to the o-ring - this makes reassembly a snap!
"On the HE3, and other models there is a plastic ball in the rubber drain line which leads to the pump assembly. The purpose of this ball is to detect suds. Typically the ball will be in a down position when the pump is running and in an up position when the machine is filled with water. Normally when the pump finishes draining the water, the position of the ball is ""down"" however, if there is an over abundance of suds then the ball floats ""up"". In essence, if the pump is running and the ball is ""up"" you got suds! A circuit ""knows"" this and puts the cycle on pause. This is also why the ""SUDS"" function kicks in when you have a pump problem. It's simple technology and it works great most of the time.
However, some folks like to use too much sticky stuff like fabric softener and the ball gets ""glued"" in the ""up"" position.
With the bottom cover removed and machine un-plugged you can reach in behind the pump and feel the ball which is inside its rubber boot. If you suspect that it's ""stuck with guck"" it can be massaged - Then dump in a good amount of bleach into the washer and run an empty cycle (no clothes). This will help clean out the drain line and free the little ball."
"Our HE3 washer has been a total stud for 12 years. No repairs, heavy use. But on Saturday afternoon, got the F02 code and it was not draining. Pulled off the lower panel and opened the trap, found lots of junk, but still no drain. I could feel inside the pump that the motor had lots of play, so I figured replacing the pump would be a good move.
Problem: It's Saturday night. Parts places closed. But it turns out Sears has parts stores that are open on weekends. Called the Sears parts store on Sunday morning, they had the part, paid about $145 for it. Installation was a snap. Plenty of help online, as well as printed instructions that come with the part.
The hardest part of the job was reinstalling the access panel! Those three little screws are down so low that unless you have tipped your machine back you will find it very challenging to screw them in!"
"With the back and top off, you will see the pressure switch (back right top). Attached to that is a small black hose. Follow it down to the drum and you will see a white assembly (air Trap) that attaches to the drum. With a flash light you can observe how much guck is in the white assembly, if this is clogged you will have to remove a small screw holding it on, remove the wires and unlatch clip near back. Have small container to catch water as you remove assembly. Once off use a bottle brush or tooth brush to clean out! This guck stops Vacuum from working due to slow drain and poor suction and produces F02 error.
14 on the Diagram is the Air Trap"