Guest
[Entry]
"First, I need to know your model #, found on the body around the door. Open the door and I need the MOD number.
Second, the reason for the loud spin cycle is due to the seal has leaked, and the bearings have gotten wet, and rusted, and it makes the sound of something like a jet engine starting-up, when it spins. Your bearings and seal need to be replaced. You can use it like this for only a few more cycles before the heat builds-up and the bearings will finally seize. The leak may be related to the broken seal, but it could also be coming from the drain pump motor. If you are able, you should see if you can get a look at the inside of your machine. Since I don't know if you have a top-load or a front-load washing machine, I can't direct you on how to look at the components inside, as access is different for these machines. But ultimately, you need to see if you can identify where the water is leaking-out from your Maytag Bravos.
Update (02/18/2018)
Further investigation, I see that you probably have a top load version of this washer. The MODEL # you will find if you lift the lid, and at the back of the mouth of the washer, on the body, is a small sticker/plate with the Model and Serial number on it. I will need the MODEL #.
IF you have a rotor/stator drive motor, the bearing kit you will need, is listed at about $115.
IF you have a splutch drive system, you will need a new gearcase, runs about $240.
The leak in a rotor/stator drive system is usually from the leaking tub seal through the bearings. The leak on a splutch drive system is most likely from somewhere near the pump motor.
In both cases, with the washer empty, you can tilt the washer back and look underneath and see where the water is coming from, and also determine if it has a silvery circular pot-looking thing called a rotor, or if it has a plastic clear cage around some white plastic parts mounted on a silvery big squarish box."
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