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F02 Error Code HE3 Elite Washer

F02 Error Code HE3 Elite Washer

The washer displayed the SUD error message, so I left it alone and eventually the message went away and was replaced with error code F02. After research, I found that this error code is due to not draining. I have done all the suggested things to make sure that drain is not plugged up or kinked etc. I cannot find any "clean out" on my model washer. The drum spins freely if I turn it by hand. Is there anything else I can try to get the washer running again? Do I have to get a service technician to come out and look at it?

ANSWERS:

"F/02 error code potential causes

Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked

Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure the pump is running.

Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects

If the above does not correct the problem replace the pump

I would start by taking the lower front panel off. There are two bolts, one on each side of the panel, remove those. Once you have the panel removed, you will see a white plastic unit, that is your pump assembly. You should also see a round plug with a plastic tab across the front. That is your coin trap. Open the cap by twisting it counterclockwise and remove it. It may just be clogged.

You can download the service manual from from here. and there is further information on here"

"OK, I see many repeats of the same good advice and a few jerks telling those of us who either want or have to do the work ourselves to call a tech. Next time I find the place that the tech will work for free I will call them, for right now THAT is my budget.

To sum up and add (I am posting for I do NOT see mention anywhere of point #6 that I add in) to all the above, and if you have a problem, I hope you make it this far:

1) Unplug the machine

2) If it was not able to drain after at least 4 or 5 attempts, get those soggy clothes out of there and try to bail out all you can.

2.5) IF you can tilt the machine back, do so, but not so far that it closes in on wanting to fall back - if the front starts to slip forward, you could be in for a real unpleasant time.

3) Remove the kick panel - normally three screws unless you lost one like I have.

4) With many towels at hand, unscrew that strainer. Clean out anything there. Check the port inside the cavity and to the right (towards the motor). This is the direction of the waterflow. See that there are no obstructions in there. Should just be the motor's impeller.

4a) If you found junk in the trap, you may have solved your problem. Next if not-

5) When the unit runs, do you hear the drain pump run? That is the motor connected to the right of the trap you just examined. If not (at all) or if it sounds like a garbage disposal with a few coins in it, we might have a problem with electricity not getting to it (doubtful) or it has gone bad - Note if you smell something almost burning when it runs, and furthermore, if it was just running, this baby will be hot!. Yes, you can pay nearly $200 for one of these if you really try, but you should be able to find a good replacement on Amazon or eBay for under $90, including shipping (I paid $65.00). ALL you want is the motor/impeller assembly - you so very most likely do not need the plastic trap and all unless you have a problem with giant rats that like to eat that plastic - my point being: I can't imagine in normal circumstances how you would ever need that plastic assembly replaced. The motor is attached to the assembly by three easy-to-remove screws.

6) Before shelling out your hard earned cash on the motor, IF you have had the unit for a while (mine is 12 years old) you easily could have junk built up around the ball valve, which is located at the base of the tub in the accordion hose that comes off the left back of the strainer assembly if you are facing the front of it. Mine is black and goes from the back of the strainer right up to the underside of the tub. You will have to remove both clamps - one on the back of the strainer and one around the fitting of it around the base underside of the tub. If they were not cheap spring clamps, it would be very easy, but with a little fighting with a pair of pliers, you can get it done (easier off than on...). I found a couple children's socks and a whole load of gray-black slime in mine!!! Also, up in the inside cavity of where the black accordion boot attaches to the underside of the tub, is the channel water goes through which should be inspected (by feel) for any more gunk.

I had to post because in my reading I never found any mention of this rubber boot - ball-valve assembly, but as mine was logically the next place to check, and indeed, horribly plugged with junk from over the years, I had to add my 2 cent's worth here for all the other folk herein have helped me out tremendously."

"The following is what fixed my washer.

1. Clean the drain filter, check all hoses for blockage. Including the main hose at bottom

where the pump is hooked. Basically clean the whole assembly.

result: got me to the wash cycle but still sud and then f02 when it's time to rinse.

2. Double check if the drain pump is working and verified at the beginning of the cycle

that it is efficiently draining water by looking at the outlet.

3. Based of my researh it seems like the sud will show up if it thinks that there are more

suds. You can tell this when you hear the drain pump run for about 5 minutes even though there are no more water. After this it will throw the f02 and will not continue to the rinse and spin cycle.

I read somewhere about the switch sensor could cause this if there is blockage. Switch sensor is located at the top right corner inside the washer. You will have to remove the top cover as well as the back cover to do this. (quite easy just screws). It has a little black drain hose. I disconnected this hose and follow where it is connected and viola there is a little canister attachment and it is full of gunk. There is only one screw holding it. Take it out and clean the gunk. Make sure the tubing are free of bubbles too by blowing air on it. Including where it attaches to the sensor. Make sure you have a pan when you take out that canister as there will be water there.

After doing this my washer worked like a charm! The key is to do all the steps to save you from buying anything else until you are absolutely sure which part is the problem. I know the sensor switch is working because it switches with other steps except when it detects the sud. This alone is an indicator that it is somehow clogged."

"One additional tip: set up a bucket under the filter trap housing (say, in the utility drawer underneath the washer) before you open it up, lest ye piddle water all over the floor.

You'll need to unseat the filter/pump assembly and then tip it forward to allow the water to clear the floor of the washer chassis. On the HE3t, it's secured to the chassis floor with one T20 screw.

No need to disconnect the hoses or plugs; there's enough slack to keep everything connected.

Remove the screw, slide the assembly forward out of its mount, then tip it down a little. (There's a bunch of wires in a plastic frame running laterally in front of the pump/trap assembly. But don't worry: you already unplugged the power cord, right?) Unscrew the trap cover a little (Don't remove it completely!) and let the water out. Tighten it back up to stop the flow so you can empty your bucket. (Ours took three or four trips to the slop sink to drain all the way.)

When it's empty, remove the cap and clean out the trap. (Our trophy: one very old, very nasty facecloth.)

Slide the pump/trap assembly back into its mount, replace the T20 screw and the lower front panel, and you should be back in the laundry business."

"Things I tried:

1. Trap clean out

2. Cleaned all drain tubes

3. Snaked the drain line

4. Drain pump bench test

5 2' Black hose clear

6. Reservoir with single screw. That's the one.

The reservoir was clogged. Thanks to the previous post.

Moral of the story:

1. We're switching to HE soap. (Duh)

2. Use a very bright light to see if tubes are clogged."

One last thing. Make sure you are prepared for the water that will flow out of the COIN TRAP. I would suggest gently pulling the rubber (red) tabs and lifting the trap up and placing a funnel to drain into a 1 GALLON bowl. I used a plastic cutting sheet to slide under the trap so that the water flowed into the bowl. THERE IS A LOT OF WATER. After it drains there will be an assortment of lost items and goo that will empty into the bowl. I am frankly surprised the thing still worked. I had $1.79 in change and 7 LEGO pieces and about 40 airsoft pellets 5 color catcher sheets along with 1 EURO!. I am still missing a lot of socks.......

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