Why won't my Ionic Breeze Air Purifier turn on?
Sharper Image model# SI830. Pushing power button does nothing. Tried taking it apart but cannon see any obvious thing to do, no blown fuse or anything I can identify by taking bottom cover off.
Zony Jones, take a look on here and see if this looks like yours. I am not sure, but I would think that there is a fuse on the circuit board somewhere. This is a bit of a beast in getting any information, but I am certain we'll get it done. Post a few images once you have it apart :-). Hope this helps, good luck.
"I had the same problem and was able to get my Ionic Breeze working by removing the faulty on off switch.
When depressed, my switch cycles through the modes Hi, Med, Low, and Off. Two blue wires run from my swith to other circuitry also located in the top portion of the unit. I cut and stripped the wires and tested the switch expecting to get continuity each time the switch was pressed. Of course, nothing happened. I then touched the two blue wires running to the circuitry mentioned above and the unit immediately turned on.
Right now i just have the two blue wires, that require shorting, hanging on the outside of the unit and not touching. To change modes I just touch the wires for a moment, then let hang again. I'll either replace the switch with another Ionic Breeze switch, or will buy a switch with similar functionality and figure out a way to mount.
I just love the smell of my Ionic Breeze. Haters can bad mouth these units all they want but when I had bed bugs, they dissappeared when the unit was on and my health has never suffered while my unit(s) were operational.
"I tried the fixes described here (thank you for posting them) but that not what was wrong with mine. My symptoms were that the unit did nothing - acted completely dead, no lights of any kind and pushing the button did nothing at all. Lifeless.
Like others mentioned, I checked around for fuses but none in this model at least.
After I tried to see if the switch was bad as some others reported (mine tested fine), I noticed something else nearby. Underneath the switch there is a small partially- sort of semicircular circuit board (that is basically the bottom of the switch). Upon looking closely at mine, I noticed what looked like corrosion. You know, when copper turns bluish-green on pipes and such kind of corrosion? Well sure enough, one of the copper circuit traces on the back of this little circuit board had become corroded and had corroded all the way through. I checked it with a multimeter first - open circuit. Then carefully scraped away the crud with a pocket knife to confirm that the copper had been eaten away for whatever reason. Normally the copper traces are covered by some kind of greenish protective film on this and other circuit boards, but apparently it gave way. Had moisture leaked in around switch area? Unknown...
Once I found this, the fix was easy - I just soldered a little 1 inch piece of wire to bypass the corroded trace on the circuit board - this is low voltage, so most any wire will do. Just be careful to not overheat the board when soldering, and not touch any of the other traces on the circuit board. After this, viola - works perfectly once again. Hooray! Hope this is helpful to someone else like me to keep their breeze flowing a little longer...while I had it apart, cleaned thoroughly as others have suggested."
"I too am looking for the wires that ionize the air. Mine broke after 17 + years of shaking the beads back and forth vigorously trying to remove that carbon tracing. The wire I found is actually one continuous wire that is clamped at the bottom and double spring loaded at the top. I believe it is steel not copper or tin that has to be a very fine AWG around 25 - 30 or so. Too thick and the slow blow fuse will pop (that too I found out). All in all I am looking for the wire and the fuse which only has the rating of 250 volts and a ridiculous rating of 1500 L which has left me scratching my head. Might mean 1500 ms time delay or probably 1500 mA or 1.5 A. I found the L means time delay. Yes 17 years is a long time of continuous use but it should go indefinitely so long as it's weakest link, the ionizing wires, can be replaced when they finally burn off.
Update (04/14/2018)
With further investigation if the fuse is blown the entire rectifier system is blown along with the large 220 u/F capacitor. The diodes are shorted out. Replacing the fuse is not enough to ""rectify"" the problem. I will keep you posted with my progress."
